Today Roberto and I are introducing a new feature to our newsletter: Escape Hatch Interviews, in which we talk to other people who’ve decided to move abroad. We hope the interviews will be inspirational for those of you considering moving to Europe but think it’s “just a pipe dream.” (Come to think of it, “Pipe Dreams” would have been a good name for this Substack.)
We begin with Jon Michelson, a friend from high school. He is an entrepreneur who has owned a restaurant, pet store, and now is co-owner of the boutique hotel Colton House Hotel in South Austin. I knew from Facebook that he had moved to Portugal, but I had never heard the story about what led him there. He has generously shared his journey.
Where are you from?
I’m for Lockhart, Texas as a 3rd generation Texan and went to high school in Austin. I spent time in Boston, Atlanta, Connecticut, and Chicago before moving back to Austin in 2005.
When and why did you decide to move abroad?
I wanted to experience life outside the US. I enjoy traveling and experiencing different cultures/lifestyles. After Covid I really started to question the important things in life (like many other people I’m sure) and decided there was no better time than now. The Covid experience, being stationary and not very social, really emphasized how important travel was to me.
Do you work or are you retired?
Early retirement.
How many times did you visit Portugal before deciding to move?
I visited for a month in August of 2022 and sent in my visa application in October. Did a ton of research and ended up hiring an immigration consultant to help me navigate the process.
How did you choose your town?
Once I picked Portugal, I didn’t want to worry about having a car, so I knew it would be either Lisbon or Porto. But once I saw my first sunset in Porto, I knew. It’s a magical city in my opinion. Honestly, a similar energy to Austin that is tough to explain. I gravitate towards “second cities.” It’s manageable to get around, easy airport, great food and wine, the beach, and beautiful summer weather. And more affordable than Lisbon.
What’s your favorite or most consumed meal in your new country?
This is a tough one. I love the food here and could write about this for days. The ingredients here are such high quality that I really enjoy the simple approach to food. Grilled whole fish with a side of roasted potatoes is a staple. And a simple sandwich called a bifana is the best snack - spicy thinly sliced pork on a roll. No dressing, cheese, nothing. It’s delicious.
What meal do you miss?
C’mon, I’m Texan. It’s BBQ and a plate of enchiladas is a close second. I also really miss live music.
How proficient were you with Portuguese when you moved there? How is it now?
I had no idea how to speak Portuguese before I moved here. I speak a little Spanish so that helps me with reading things a little. But to those people who think Spanish and Portuguese are basically the same language - think again. They sound nothing alike. The pronunciation of Portuguese is so different and difficult. I’m trying my best to work on it. The younger generation of Portuguese learn English and French in school, so the transition wasn’t overwhelming, but I try as much as possible to at least try to speak Portuguese when I can.
Can you tell us about the cost of living?
The cost of living is significantly more affordable than in Austin. My rent is 1300 euro/month for a partially furnished 2bdr/2bth apartment. It is a recent construction with central HVAC and an elevator. I typically spend between 10-20 euro on dinner and that includes alcohol. Lunch can be as little as 5 euro.
How did you acquire a visa?
The Visa I applied for is called a D7. Basically a retirement/passive income visa. You have to prove that you have sufficient income to live in Portugal. It doesn't matter how much you have saved . . . they want to see consistent income. I don't remember the exact number, but it's less than 10k euro a year. It's a pretty detailed application so that's a big reason why I hired the consultant. In addition to proof of income, you have to:
Provide a Portuguese tax id
Open a bank account in Portugal
Sign a one year lease on an apartment or buy a place
Hold private health insurance;
Show a clean criminal record.
I think that was all of it. I sent in my application in October 2022 and received my approval in February 2023. My lease started in January 2023 so I paid for a couple of months rent before I was approved.
It takes 5 years to become a permanent resident. The visa is good for 2 years and then renewable for another 3. And there are requirements on how much time you have to stay in the country during both time periods (16 months in the first two years). Basically, they want to know you are committed to living here. But with the temporary visa, you are allowed to use the health care service and travel within Schengen without the need for other Visas (on a US passport you are only allowed 90 days of travel every 180). This visa is also a track to obtain Portuguese citizenship.
What's something you enjoy about living in Portugal that wouldn't be available/would be different in the US?
This might be cliché, but the answer is the slower lifestyle. I’ve always known that the pace in the US is very fast. But after living here for a year now, I don’t think I realized how significant it is. We (Americans) are soooo driven and it is exhausting. When I go back, all of my family and friends are always busy. Schedules are full and always moving. I mean ALWAYS. And I got caught up in it too on my last visit. I feel like we are almost embarrassed to be bored or have nothing to do. It’s not healthy. People ask me all the time what I do everyday. I have slowed everything down here. I walk a ton. Don’t mind standing in a line every now and then. Take an hour and a half to 2 hours for lunch without blinking. Sometimes - I don’t do a thing. And that’s ok.
Thanks to Jon for sharing his experience! We found that his answers were similar to ours in many ways. And here are some of the basic costs of living in Porto found on Numbeo.com, a great site for looking up any town you are considering.
Jusqu’à la prochaine fois (until next time).
Carolyn & Roberto
Absolutely!