Here vs. There
Roberto's thoughts after a month back in the US
Carolyn and I have been back in the US for a month now. When changing homes frequently, one can’t help but compare differences and dwell on what is special and wonderful (or lacking) in each place. We have been homebound for a large chunk of our time in Austin (thanks to the flu that seems to be going around), so most of the following observations are home-based.
Walking. Perhaps the biggest thing I miss about France is the walking. Sure, it’s prime walking weather right now in Austin with chilly mornings and afternoons warming to light sweater or jacket weather, but the walking is different. I miss the interesting views in the old city with its ancient walls and narrow, cobblestone streets. And I miss the crowds of people when I go walking here in Austin—there are always other people out walking around in Montpellier, and it’s a small enough town that I get recognized. There are already shop owners, grocers, artists, and neighbors who nod hello or offer a friendly bonjour! when they see me. Sometimes I even run into one of our friends and enjoy a short chat in the street. That doesn’t happen in Austin. The people I see walking in Austin are either walking thier dogs or exercising (they’re usually running). Life is lived with the help of a car here, people don’t really walk to window shop, buy groceries, or go out for a meal. Yes, I run into friends here in Austin, but it tends to be at coffee shops, at the gym, or at stores, not out walking.
The food. Brace yourself for shocking news, but France has the upper hand in terms of high quality and affordable food. In Montpellier, food is closely tied to walking; part of my daily routine is a trip to the farm stand or butcher or supermarché to buy food for the day. Of course, there are some things we don’t buy every day: milk, yogurt, cheese, granola and foods with long shelf lives don’t have to be purchased so frequently. In contrast, we tend to buy proteins, fruits, and fresh vegetables every day or every two days at most. Daily shopping is surely part of eating better—we have to think more frequently about what we are going to consume, and what’s on offer changes more dramatically with the seasons. Food shopping is easier in France because the food shops are integrated into the fabric of the city, the vegetable stands, butchers, and fish market are right next to the clothing stores, restaurants, and tabacs. They aren’t destination stores that require a special trip with a car to carry a week’s worth (or more) of food home in a single trip.
The other big part of the discussion of food expense is the cost of dining out. Carolyn wrote about tipping customs in the US and France in her most recent post so I won’t dwell on it too long. It’s cheaper to dine out in France. Whether you are buying a burger or a fine meal at a Michelin star restaurant, it costs significantly less in Montpellier. Part of this is the tipping culture, almost nobody expects a tip in France. (We absolutely do not begrudge the US workers their tips, it’s a consequence of the difference in the wage/employment laws, social safety nets, and healthcare systems - but that’s a subject for another post.)
Bigger house with a yard. Finally a win for the US! It’s so much easier on us and the dogs to have a back yard where we can let them out with minimal supervision. We love having the dogs with us in France, and they picked out their favorite napping spots quickly in our cozy apartment, but it’s definitely a little more work to own a dog when you don’t have a yard. The extra space is a big deal for us, too. Our house in Texas is over three times the size of the Montpellier apartment, and that’s BEFORE you count the yard. I (Roberto) am a very early riser. I want to work out, practice guitar, listen to NPR, and work on art or woodworking projects in those early hours. That’s all easier to do with extra space—we even have a detached guest house with my workshop/music room on the lower floor. I can go there and crank an electric guitar or power tool without disturbing Carolyn or a neighbor.
Another nice thing about the bigger house is the extra bathrooms. Here in Austin we have 3-1/2 baths which includes four WC’s. In Montpellier our apartment has two shower rooms and one WC. You learn perhaps more than you want to know about your partner in those conditions; personally, I’m happy for our digestive cycles to be shrouded in mystery once again.
Language. I miss hearing French! This was a surprise to me because communication is such an ever-present struggle when we are in France; it often felt exhausting. Here in the US, I practice French on Duolingo every day but it’s not the same as hearing it on the street and speaking (even in my VERY limited way) with other people. I miss the nervous fear when I’m trying out unfamiliar vocabulary for the first (or tenth) time and the delight when I succeed in communicating something in French. That thrill of in-person achievement is rewarding in a way that the animated cheering on DuoLingo will never equal!
Jusqu’à la prochaine fois! (until next time),
Carolyn & Roberto